Ahh the infamous peppermint magazine jumpsuit. It was all over my Instagram feed last summer and it was this post in particular by the.sewcialite that made me think it might actually work for my 150cm frame. Lorraine kindly shared the adjustments she had made to hers and they didn’t seem too daunting so I thought I would give it a try.
So that was back in February and I even bought some dreamy linen from Potter and co with this jumpsuit in mind. That was my first purchase from them and I’m really happy with the quality of this linen. It’s medium weight and completely opaque, so was perfect for a lighter weight jumpsuit. I think it would also be great for tops and dresses too.
As I’ve mentioned before I do not enjoy taping together PDF patterns and will always get them printed out at the copy shop where possible. I wasn’t able to get down to Melbourne to get it printed out, and shipping was fairly expensive so I bided my time. In the end a local sewing buddy very kindly offered to get it printed out for me when she went to Melbourne so I was able to get my A0 copy in the end, a few months after I’d first decided to make it.
I do want to mention how amazing it is that this pattern is free! Emily from In the Folds was collaborating with Peppermint magazine for quite a while (sadly she just released her last pattern for them) and we’re so lucky that we get free access to such a great pattern. It is well drafted and the instructions are incredibly detailed. The only snafu I encountered was when my friend was trying to upload the pattern to the officeworks website to get it printed out. Basically the A0 file would not upload and she ended up contacting both Peppermint magazine and Emily. Emily had heard of this issue and very kindly and promptly sent us a new file which uploaded without any problems.
So the pattern is drafted for a height of 5’7” (basically 8” taller than me!) so there were a few alterations I had to make. I also spent an embarrassing amount of time searching the hashtag on Instagram as I always find it so helpful to see what changes other sewists have made. Quite a few people mentioned slimming the legs down and adding pockets, however had found that inseam pockets added unwanted bulk. I decided to do both these changes but to go with patch pockets.
I shortened the legs by 4”, the bodice by 2 ½’, and increased the seam allowance on the outer legs by 5/8” and the inner legs by ½”. The crotch depth was unaffected as I tapered the increased seam allowance on the inner leg to nothing a few inches below the crotch. I also made a size B bodice graded to a size A below the waist. I’d initially sewn up my muslin as a size A (without actually checking the sizing chart – whoops) but as the top part of the bodice is the only fitted part of the garment make sure you go with the size that matches your upper bust and bust measurements (which was a size B for me). I also cut the sash shorter so the finished length was 67″ as I wanted a cleaner finish with no loose tails. This length is perfect for me to be able to wrap the sash around my waist twice and tuck the tails under.
The week before I sewed up my jumpsuit I saw this post lamenting a very sad end when the burrito method outlined in the instructions was used. That scared me off it a bit (and I’m not the biggest fan of the burrito method anyway) so in the end I followed this excellent tutorial on the Megan Nielsen blog to attach the facing and invisible zip.
This changes the order of construction slightly as the zip isn’t attached until after the facing. Basically the facing is attached once the shoulder seams and part of the front seam is sewn. It’s important to leave the last inch or so either side of the back centre seam unsewn so you can attach the invisible zip cleanly afterwards. You then understitch as far as you can, the turn the jumpsuit the right way out. Give it a good go with your iron then attach the invisible zip.
Luckily this all worked out well and I’m very pleased with the final result. This is the first jumpsuit I’ve had since I was a little kid and I’m loving trying out yet another new silhouette. I had a little styling session while my youngest had a fortuitously long nap and had fun trying a few different combinations. I think it’ll be perfect for hot summer days as is, but I also like how it looks layered with a turtleneck or t-shirt underneath. I tried a full linen on linen look with two of my recent makes, a white Maya top and hacked new look 6483 and think it works particularly well with a cropped top.
- Pattern: the free Peppermint magazine jumpsuit
- Pattern mods: Shortened legs by 4”, shortened bodice by 2 ½’, tapered legs by 5/8” on outer leg seam and 1’2” on inner leg seam, finished sash length shortened to 67” long
- Construction mods: attached facing follow Megan Nielsen tutorial rather than burrito method
- Fabric: Lara linen in Dove from Potter and co
- Other garments: modified Lark tee, self drafted t-shirt, modified Maya top (scroll to the bottom of this post for mods) and modified new look 6483 (see this post for mods)
Are you a jumpsuit fan too? Have you tried this fantastic free pattern? Happy sewing xx