If you saw my last post I made the bottom half of V9075 into a pair of culottes which have been surprisingly wearable. After making my first pair of culottes I was keen to see if I could do some pattern hacking to make a more casual version. I was definitely inspired by all the amazing versions of the Ninni culottes which were all over my me made May 2019 feed on instagram but was worried that they might be a bit too wide for me. I was happy with the fit of the V9075 culottes so I decided to give pattern hacking a go.
The top of V9075 is slightly curved as is the hem of the legs. I straightened out both of these to be parallel to each other (to make pattern hacking easier) and made sure the side seams were perpendicular. I measured my hips and made the top of the waistband 4” larger than my hip measurement to ensure I would be able to get them on and off. The pant legs do not flare out at all so this removed some width from the legs. I used a completely elasticated waistband with 2 x 1” wide channels with ¾” elastic through each. I used 23 1/2″ of elastic overlapped by 1″ in each of the channels.
I muslined the new pattern up in a very old quilting cotton I had lying around and thought I was good to go with my actual fabric, a linen and cotton blend from the Fabric store. Once I tried them on (unfortunately I did not get any pictures) it was very apparent that the rise was way too long and that I had attached the pockets about 2” too low. I unpicked the waistband (grrr not my favourite part of sewing) and removed 2” from the top of the pants before reattaching the waistband. Luckily this improved both the rise and my pocket placement in one fell swoop so that felt like a bit of a win.
I tried these on again and unfortunately still wasn’t happy with them! The rise was definitely better but I felt like the pant legs were just too wide, particularly on my very petite frame. The thought of unpicking the waistband again was very off putting so I put the project aside for a few nights. I came back to it with fresh eyes knowing it was worth putting in the effort to fix them so that I would be happy with them.
I unpicked not only the waistband, but also the inseam pockets as I wanted to reduce the overall width of the pant legs and the most logical way to do this would be to take the side seams in. I ended up taking 1” from the side seams (so a total of 4” in circumference) which meant that the stretched waistband ended up matching my hip measurement. I also felt that they were a bit too short for my liking so I attached 5” cuffs to the bottom of the pant legs.
After all that faffing about I’m pretty happy with the end result, but looking back at these photos am still not sure about the length and may end up taking an inch or two off them. Phew that felt like a bit of an essay about minor tweaks but I really do think that getting the small details right can really make a garment so much better. In these pictures I’m wearing them with a long sleeved Grainline Studio Lark tee hacked into a turtleneck (or skivvy as we called them growing up). My shoes are a relatively new addition, a pair of Lotta from Stockholm clogs which are super comfortable. Finding shoes to fit my tiny yet wide size 35 feet is a bit of a nightmare so I was pretty excited to discover this brand.
It’s still a bit too cold to wear these in Australia right now but I foresee them becoming a good pant option for when the weather finally warms up. Happy sewing xx